From flea markets to bookstores to designer clothing to handmade shoe manufacturers – see if anything strikes your fancy.
Andrássy Avenue is where you can quickly shell out a fortune in stores like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Rolex. Big commercial chains like Zara and H&M and tourist-aimed folklore stores are located mostly along the busy Váci Street in downtown, Budapest’s version of La Rambla. In between, both price-wise and geographically, is Fashion Street – a short pedestrian row with labels including Hugo Boss, Lacoste, and Massimo Dutti.
As in other cities globally, shopping malls have siphoned away customers from downtown. This is partly why, for example, the once truly grand Grand Boulevard (Nagykörút) appears so forlorn these days. If you’re curious about a Budapest mall, try WestEnd City Center, a gigantic hub of commerce set along the Nyugati Railway Station.
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Find below, in thematic order, some of my favorite specialty stores in Budapest. They’re scattered across different neighborhoods, but almost all are in or within walking distance of downtown.
ANTIQUES AND FLEA MARKETS
#1 - Antique row on Falk Miksa Street (€30-10,000; location; usually 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-2 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): More than 35 antique stores line this leafy street near the Hungarian Parliament building. Although you can unearth some inexpensive bric-a-brac, most places here sell pricey silver tableware, porcelain sets, turn-of-the-century paintings, and art deco furniture. Keep an eye out for some of Zsolnay's magnificent ceramic lines. My favorite stores include Pintér (#10), Artcore (#12), Antikvitás (#12), Pethő (#24), and Virág Judit Galéria (#30).
#2 - Herend Porcelain (€80-20,000; location; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-2 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): What Meissen is to Germany and Sèvres to France is Herend to Hungary – the center for porcelain manufacturing. Founded in 1825, Herend Porcelain initially specialized in replacements of Meissen and Sèvres for the Hungarian aristocracy before introducing its own line of dishware, tea and coffee sets, and vases. Today, Herend Porcelain still hand-paints all products which are exported to countries around the world.
The company’s flagship store in Budapest’s József nádor tér sells the classic lines, named after famous customers, such as Queen Victoria, Franz Joseph, Alexander von Humboldt, and the Rothschild family (my favorite is the "Gödöllő" label with its red-brick vertical bands). Even if you don’t feel like shelling out €5,000, it’s possible to find small figurines and individual plates or bowls that go for €80 or so.
#3 - Ecseri flea market (€20-1,000; location; 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mon-Fri, 6-3 on Saturday; 9-1 on Sunday): Budapest’s biggest and best-known antique flea market lies about a half-hour bus ride from the city center. As with other flea markets, part of Ecseri's appeal is the cast of eccentric characters but I've run into wonderful treasures here. A word to the wise: go on a Saturday, and try to get there before 9 a.m. for the fullest experience.
#4 - Klauzál flea market (Antik Placc) (€5-100; location; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday, closed otherwise): For a mellower and more conveniently located flea market, you'll only need to trek to the historic Klauzál Market in Budapest's Jewish Quarter, near the city center. Here, you'll find the classic secondhand repertoire – porcelain dishware, folk clothing, vintage cameras, used vinyl albums. Bargaining is allowed and expected. Open only on Sundays!
BOOKSTORES (with English-titles)
#5 - Írók Boltja (€7-40; location; 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mon-Fri, 11-7 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): Since its opening in 1952, this snug bookstore has been an island of peace and quiet for local bookworms. The English-language books, located on the upper floor, feature translated works of Hungary’s leading writers, including Péter Nádas, Sándor Márai, and Péter Esterházy. (I hope they never remove the vintage sign above the entry door.)
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#6 - Bestsellers (€10-40; location; 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Mon-Fri, 11-6 on Saturday, 12-6 on Sunday): Situated in the heart of the city, Bestsellers is a dedicated English-language bookstore that’s especially popular among local expatriates. The array of international magazines (Vanity Fair, Wallpaper, The Economist, GQ, etc.) and extensive Budapest-related guide books can make a visit worthwhile.
#7 - Atlantisz Bookstore (€10-40; location; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-2 on Saturday, closed on Sunday): Located on the downtown-end of Király Street, Atlantisz has a mix of English and Hungarian-language titles. They’re strongest in (Hungarian) history, translated works of Hungarian writers, and art history. I’ve stumbled into many gems here, most recently David Cooper's biography of Béla Bartók.
#8 - FUGA - Budapest Center for Architecture (€7-50; location; 2-7 p.m. Wed-Sun; closed on Monday and Tuesday): Architecture buffs shouldn’t miss this downtown bookstore which doubles as an exhibition gallery. The front of the space is chock-full of architecture and Budapest-related guide books – with many English-language titles – while the rear and downstairs sections are dedicated to temporary exhibitions. (Find here a list of the city's most interesting architecture.)
#9 - Massolit Books & Cafe (€5-30; location; 9:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. every day): This snug café and English-language bookstore inside the old Jewish Quarter is a hallowed ground for brainy locals and tourists alike. The book-lined interior eschews the usual trappings of contemporary coffee shops, instead featuring worn-out furniture and a well-earned patina. The book selections span pulp fiction, history, biographies, classical literature, and English translations by Hungarian novelists such as Ferenc Molnár, Sándor Márai, Magda Szabó, Péter Nádas, and László Krasznahorkai. A word to the wise: in the warm months, they open the nondescript outdoor section in the back of the space. (My interview with the wonderful owner: Judit Pecák.)
SKINCARE & PERFUMERY
#10 - Omorovicza (€60-350; location; 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-6 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): This premium skincare line harnesses the supposed healing powers of Budapest’s mineral-rich thermal waters. The brand has conquered half the world since their launch in 2006, but their flagship store, also offering face massages and mud masks, is right here in Budapest.
DESIGNER CLOTHING
#11 - Spark le Monde (€100-2,000; location; 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. every day): Just steps from the Opera House, right on Andrássy Avenue lies this treasure-filled concept store focused on international rising stars. From Marine Serre’s upcycled daywear to Nensi Dojaka’s skin-forward dresses to Veja shoes. Also here: Supreme necklaces, Coperni bags, handmade candles, and Phaidon coffee-table books. A few local designer labels are sprinkled throughout for good measure, such as Kata Szegedi. You can browse their online store for inspiration.
#12 - Nanushka (€80-2,000; location; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Sat, 12-6 on Sunday): This swanky downtown store is the flagship location of Nanushka, Budapest’s leading women’s fashion label. Nanushka’s easy-to-wear cosmopolitan pieces comprise updated and pricey takes on trendy fashion. If you need an energy boost, order a shot of espresso from the specialty café inside the store.
#13 - Nubu Zen Store (€150-3,000; location; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mon-Sat, 11-6 on Sunday): This high-end designer store by founder Judit Garam and co-designer Adél Kovács is located on the upscale Andrássy Avenue. The clothes are made from natural materials such as silk and cotton and linen blends using lots of white, black, pale pink, and pale beige. There's some ruffle and lace and flirtatious lines, but these are modern classics that will last a lifetime.
#14 - Margot (€50-500; location; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tue-Sat; closed on Sun-Mon): This downtown designer store specializes in Anna Daubner's effortlessly quirky clothes. The Agatha Christie-inspired fashion line is fun; those with the confidence to pull off the bold prints and color palette will shine. There's also beautifully crafted jewelry and pastel-colored hats that feel authentic and coherent.
VINTAGE CLOTHING AND THRIFT SHOPS
#15 - Typo Showroom (€30-500; location; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Sat, closed on Sunday): Tucked away on a cool part of District 8 near Mikszáth tér, Typo is a high-end second-hand store. The clothes are in very good condition and range from casual chic to formal, from fast fashion to designer labels such as Burberry, Lanvin, and Isabel Marant. Both men and women can find treasures here.
#16 - Retrock (€30-300; location; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mon-Sat, 11-8 on Sunday): If aged denim jackets, worn-in plaid flannel shirts, and quirky tweed jackets are your design choices, be sure to head to Retrock, the mecca for vintage clothes in Budapest. Besides second-hand retro items, they also have a colorful collection of rugged sweaters and imported bags from Ecuador.
#17 - Ludovika (€20-250; location; 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Fri, 12-6 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): Ludovika is a tiny store in the Jewish Quarter specializing in cute and approachable throwback items. Highlights include the blouses adorned with Hungarian folk motifs, bohemian denim dresses, and a motley array of bracelets and silk scarfs (check out the upstairs, too).
#18 - Jajcica (€5-100; location; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-2 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): Local fashion-insiders will tell you to head to Jajcica for a true-to-Budapest vintage shopping experience. Whether you're into a chic 1930s look or heavy metal fashion, this labyrinthine store offers something for everyone. They're especially well stocked with second-hand Levi's jeans, shoes of all kinds, and Hawaii shirts. Being located a bit outside the city center means that prices are friendlier.
#19 - Szputnyik (€20-250; location; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Sat, 10-6 on Sunday): If you haven’t found what you looked for, give Szputnyik a chance. It's yet another vintage store inside the Jewish Quarter, but apart from retro items, they also carry popular global brands like Toms shoes and Kanken backpacks – a true hipster paradise.
DESIGNER ACCESSORIES
#20 - MONO art & design (€10-300; location; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-8 on Saturday; 11-6 on Sunday): It’s easy to spend more time and money than initially planned at this downtown store bursting with local designer products ranging from cool ceramics to jewelry and notebooks. Keep an eye out for Agneskovacs bags, PomPom’s natural skincare products, and Nubu’s clothes.
#21 - Printa design shop (€20-350; location; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Sat; closed on Sunday): This lively concept store inside the Jewish Quarter marries a designer store and an artist’s studio. Peruse screen-printed drawings, posters, T-shirts, and Budapest-inspired gift items made by Hungarian artists, then round out your visit with a cup of coffee on Madách tér at Központ or My Little Melbourne.
#22 - Museum store of the Hungarian National Gallery (€10-250; location; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mon-Sun in high season; otherwise closed on Monday): The gift shop of the Hungarian National Gallery up in the royal palace is a good one. The assortment contains the usual suspects – books, tote bags, pencils, fridge magnets, water bottles, postcards, notebooks, small designer clothing – but they’re decorated with artworks from the palatial halls up top. The museum itself is also worth a visit.
#23 - Judapest (€20-300; location; 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. every day): The famously anti-semitic mayor of Vienna, Karl Lueger (1844-1910), coined the mocking term – Judapest, referring to Budapest’s large Jewish population – which was later mirrored by like-minded Hungarians. Located smack in the middle of the city’s old Jewish Quarter, this designer store subverted and embraced the ridicule by selling items inspired by Jewish and Hungarian-Jewish culture. Mugs emblazoned with Yiddish-Hungarian words; earrings evoking the towers of the Dohány Street synagogue; seder plates and mezuzahs made from concrete; chic kippahs; and books by Jewish authors, for example.
#24 - Rododendron (€20-250; location; 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-5 on Saturday; 11-3 on Sunday): This lovely design store hidden on a quiet downtown backstreet sells prints and posters made by Hungarian artists. My favorites include Anna Holló’s poignant cartoons and Marcus Goldson’s colorful Budapest characters. You’ll also find notebooks, postcards, jewelry, and some clothes here.
SPECIALTY STORES
#25 - Vass shoes (€400-2,000; location; 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-4 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): This upscale men’s shoe store founded in 1978 by shoemaker László Vass is a pilgrimage site for shoe-fanatics from around the world: Vass’ handmade suede loafers, high-polished oxfords, and classic derbys are considered to be among the top globally. They keep an inventory of all the models in-store, but customers can also order a bespoke pair.
#26 - Várfok Art Gallery (€1,000-50,000; location; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tue-Sat; closed Sun-Mon): One of Budapest's leading art galleries represents a cross-generational set of more than twenty local and international artists, including photographerPéter Korniss,Francoise Gilot(Picasso's partner for ten years), andEndre Rozsda. The more experimental works, often made by younger artists, are across the street in their Project Room. You can conveniently drop in here after exploring the nearby Old City. For more Budapest art galleries, proceed this way.
#27 - Hús Specialista (€10-200; location; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mon-Fri; 8-2 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): Even if you’re visiting just for a few days, you could pick up some delicious cold cuts from my favorite butcher in Budapest, Krisztián: paprika sausage, mangalica ham, Italian salumi, or whatever he recommends. He mans the counter most days at the Klauzál Market. I’ve been a customer for many years because I live in the neighborhood. Tell him I sent you, he might even give you a discount.
#28 - Bortársaság wine store (€10-300; location; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-7 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): Most people have heard of Hungary's famous Tokaj wines, but other wine regions such as Somló, Eger, and Sopron have remained under the radar internationally. This wine store, part of a national chain, sells a wide range of local bottles. When in doubt, ask the informed and helpful staff. Here, you can learn about Hungarian wines.
#29 - Veritas wine store (€10-300; location; 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon-Fri, 10-6 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): While Bortársaság, above, has more locations, Veritas wine store carries some treasured bottles, such as Disznókő’s five and six-puttony Tokaj aszús and the white wines of Mihály Figula, the king of the Balaton region. Their store is located in the old Jewish Quarter, so you can swing by once already there.
#30 - Rózsavölgyi Chocolate (€7-50; location; 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Mon-Fri, 12-6 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): Budapest is hardly known as a chocolate capital, but this family-run local chocolate maker produces some world-class varieties. They import single-origin cocoa beans directly from farms in Venezuela, Peru, Tanzania, and Madagascar, and process them in-house to let the natural flavors shine through. Dark, milk, and flavored kinds are all available.
#31 - Wave record store (€8-50; location; 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Mon-Fri, 11-5 on Saturday; closed on Sunday): Wave is more than a record store – it’s been the hangout for fans of Hungarian alternative music since the 1990s. They’ve lived through all cycles: from vinyl to tape and then CD, and survived even when nobody wanted to pay for music. With current releases from all genres, especially Hungarian folk, jazz, and beat-selections, almost anyone can find something here. (Here's the full list of Budapest's top record stores.)
#32 - Tipton Eyeworks (€280-500; location; 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tue-Fri, 10-3 on Saturday; closed on Sunday and Monday): What do Elton John, Quentin Tarantino, and Robbie Williams have in common? The unlikely answer is they all own Vinylize glasses, frames made of recycled vinyl records by local designer brand Tipton Eyeworks. Their downtown showroom sells hundreds of prescription- and sunglass-ready vinyl frames, and here you can also get a glimpse of the meticulous production process.
#33 - Budapest Poster Gallery (€150-20,000; location; by appointment only: [emailprotected] or +3630 662 7274): With more than 2,500 original Hungarian vintage posters, this gallery is a treasure trove of graphic art. The collection includes Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and Socialist Modern pieces made by prominent local artists. It's an appointment-only gallery, so try perusing their online catalogue before you go, an experience in itself.
#34 - Kaczián Ties (€30-100; location; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mon-Sat; closed on Sunday): A true gem just off the tourist-heavy Váci Street. This tiny, old-school store is a paradise of handmade ties, bow ties, pocket squares, and scarves. The Kaczián family has been in charge since the opening in 1957 (the production floor is on the upstairs). Wide assortment, reasonable prices, adorable spirit.
#35 - 1001 Kefe Brush Store (€10-50; location; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mon-Fri; closed on the weekend): Opened in 1923, this specialty brush store is a precious relic in Budapest's District 7. Whether you'd like to tidy up your stache, polish your shoes, clean your jars, dust off some mushrooms, they'll have something for you. Hence the name, 1001 Kefe. I recently bought a wonderful back-scratcher brush – one of those things I didn’t know I needed until I had one. The store is tiny, appealingly old-school, and owned by the same family since the start.
Please note that one of the featured places above has sponsored this article and that I accept advertising only from tried and tested places.
